landscape view of the busy streets in Hong Kong & a Tram near Park Hotel Group
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Hong Kong Hood-hopping

HONG KONG HOOD-HOPPING

Victoria Peak. Central. Causeway Bay. Stanley. For many visitors, knowledge of the island is often limited to these famous – albeit deserving – places to visit in Hong Kong. If you’re looking for something off the beaten track, however, more than 80 sq km of island await. From densely populated urban areas to scenic villages dotting undeveloped coastline, linked by world-class public transportation, there are charming enclaves to be discovered.

Use this as your Hong Kong SAR travel guide to “hood-hop” through five of the most happening neighbourhoods when you visit Hong Kong.

 

Kennedy Town

 

KENNEDY TOWN

Laid-back seaside enclave

On the western edge of the island is the cosy neighbourhood of Kennedy Town, easily accessed by the public train system, the MTR. It has what few neighbourhoods in Hong Kong have: an unobstructed view of the sea. And despite being piled with high-rises, it also has a large park, public swimming pool, and retail malls with integrated playzones, making it one of the more family-friendly parts of the island.

The gentrification that has come to better-known Sheung Wan and Sai Ying Pun in recent years is also changing Kennedy Town, but at a much slower rate. Recently arrived food and drink establishments tend to be more like neighbourhood hangouts for fun yet quality dining. Local favourites such as Quay West on New Praya offer beer, cocktails and straightforward pub grub, plus fantastic views of the harbour, the mountains of Kowloon, and several islands. 

Casual eateries and bars such as the low-key but modern Jaspa’s on Catchick Street and the newest installment of legendary local English-style pub Old China Hand on Davis Street are also close enough to smell the sea.

K Town in Sheung Wan

SHEUNG WAN

Explore Hong Kong City’s urban buzz by foot

It may be near the department stores, fancy restaurants and bars of Central, but Sheung Wan has managed to keep a very strong local identity even while more expats are being drawn here by comparatively low rents and a central location.

Composed of small city blocks bordered by countless short streets, narrow alleys and steep staircases, Sheung Wan is best explored by walking. Heading southward from Sheung Wan Station, which is built on reclaimed land in the neighbourhood’s north, the terrain quickly goes from flat to hilly.

On lower streets such as Bonham Strand and Jervois Street, an independent cafe culture has emerged, featuring organic, single-origin and fair trade coffees from around the world. 

In lower Sheung Wan, one is also spoilt for choice when it comes to both local and international cuisine. Laksa, poutine, sushi and French-style rotisserie chicken are available alongside Cantonese chezai noodle shops and small storefronts selling bowls of leungcha – cold herbal teas that not only refresh but also restore balance to one’s body, according to the principles of traditional Chinese medicine.

Man Mo Temple

 

As the saying goes, if you have to ask the price, then you probably can’t afford it. In such a case, you can seek to improve your fortunes at the most impressive antique on Hollywood Road – Man Mo Temple. Built in 1847, this small, weathered Buddhist temple was where hopeful scholars made offerings to the gods in the hope of passing the old imperial exams. Today, people still go there to pray for good fortune. Massive coils of burning incense hang from the ceiling, creating an oasis of tranquility.

Just across the street from Man Mo Temple is one of Hollywood Road’s more unusual shops, Indosiam Rare Books. Packed with rare and antiquarian books about China and Southeast Asia from as far back as the 17th century, as well as modern books and posters, it attracts Asia-based foreigners, rare book collectors and, perhaps more surprisingly, young Hong Kongers looking to learn more about their roots.

 

Tea house in Hong Kong

 

SAI YING PUN

Neighbourhood of the future

In Hong Kong real estate, access to public transport is everything. The opening of new metro stations in the island’s west this year will bring fast, cheap rail transport to three new neighbourhoods, and change is already afoot in one of these: Sai Ying Pun.

Just west of Sheung Wan, Sai Ying Pun is bordered by the University of Hong Kong (HKU) to the south and Victoria Harbour to the north. Sai Ying Pun smells of the sea, and it’s not just due to its being next to the harbour. 

Aromas are only a part of Sai Ying Pun’s character. The ringing bells of the trams that have been operating here since 1904 remind visitors of a different era – before the arrival of the lightning-fast MTR. The island’s cheapest, and slowest, form of public transport, these beloved trams are an integral part of the island’s character, and a ride in one is highly recommended for those who want to experience a piece of history.

 

Egg tarts in Hong Kong

 

A short walk uphill culminates in another bit of yesteryear. Lin Heung Ku, a typical Hong Kong Tea House, traces its roots back to 1889, where it was first founded in Guangzhou, China, opening its first two tea houses in Hong Kong in 1926. Here at its Central branch, the vibe is a cacophony of loud banter, clanging of plates. The aroma emanating from the steaming dim sum trolleys makes each dish alluring though the ever-present crowd may take some getting use

 

Shek O

 

SHEK O

Beach Village escape

The north of Hong Kong may be dominated by concrete jungle, but the south side is a different story. Hong Kong beaches are seldom trending as a key attraction but Shek O, a colourful, coastal hamlet, is set between a scenic bay and tree-covered mountains, and well-deserves mention as a must-visit spot.

Other than the regular bus service, there is little to remind one of urban life in Shek O. For the growing number of expats who live here, that’s exactly the point. There are no grocery stores, ATMs, Michelin-starred restaurants or shopping malls here.

Just past the temple, waves lap at sandy Back Beach, where locals and expats come to shoot the breeze at Ben’s Back Beach Bar, the sound of surf in the background. Considered Hong Kong’s best beach bar for its family- and pet-friendly atmosphere, affordable drinks and sunset view, Ben’s, like the neighbourhoods in this story, is a metaphor for Hong Kongers enjoying the good life, far from the madding crowd.

After an exhilarating day of exploring Hong Kong’s vibrant neighbourhoods, unwind in comfort at Park Hotel Hong Kong. Situated in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, elegantly designed rooms and well- equipped amenities provide a tranquil retreat amidst the city's dynamic energy. Book your stay and experience a seamless blend of convenience and comfort in one of Hong Kong’s most exciting districts. 

 

Photo credits (Top to bottom): PROMark Lehmkuhler, Forz (Wikipedia), doctorho, tommy@chau, Chelsea Marie Hicks, Clotee Pridgen Allochuku, David Law

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